The Noble Experiment

Month: November, 2011

Barkeep, there is vinegar in my cocktail!

Citrus is played out. You can only have so much fun with lemon and lime juice until you grow tired of the results. But when making drinks, you need that acidity to balance out the sweetness of liqueurs and spirits. So, you may ask, how do I find balance without using the bracing acidity of citrus fruit? Vinegar.

Vinegar on its own is a bit aggressive for most cocktails. The smell alone is enough to make someone cringe. But there are many techniques that can help to make vinegar more palatable without it losing that acidic bite to balance out your sweetener. My two favorite options are (1) soak fruit in the vinegar, or (2) rinse a glass and dump.

The rinsing technique is similar to what you might do when using Absinthe in a Sazerac. You want the essence, but you don’t want the flavors to overwhelm the drink. Given the small quantity that is being used in this technique, you’re going to get flavor and some acidity, but you’ll need to be careful with the sweet components in your drink as it probably won’t have the same effect as using a 1/2 or 3/4 oz of lime juice.

The other option, which is perhaps more interesting, is to soak the vinegar in fruit for a few days. Once the vinegar has taken on the fruit aroma and flavor, you can add a little bit of sugar and simmer it to fully combine the flavors. That will thicken it up slightly and balance it out while still leaving you the aggressive aspects of the vinegar that you were looking for. This also affords you the opportunity to add some additional aromatics such as bay leaf, rosemary, lemon verbena, lavender, etc.  What you’re left with after you simmer and strain is a sweet and tart syrup that will add complexity and intrigue to your drink.

Here’s the basic recipe that I use for my Shrub syrup:

3 Cups Fresh Fruit – this could equate to one whole pineapple, a lb of strawberries, a few stalks of rhubarb, etc.

6 Cups of Vinegar  - I usually use apple cider vinegar, but balsamic or champagne vinegar would be great too.  No white vinegar

5 oz White Sugar

A Handful of Aromatics – pair something with your fruit ie: pineapple and sage, strawberries and basil, blueberries and lemon verbena

Combine your fruit and vinegar and let it sit covered for five days, shaking once daily. After five days, strain and put it in a saucepan with sugar.  Bring to a simmer, add the aromatics and let it simmer for 8 – 10 minutes.  Remove, cool, store refrigerated and start making cocktails.

Barrel Aging Cocktails

Alright, so this may have been played out last year in Portland and NYC, but it really hasn’t taken root here in the Mid-Atlantic. Jeffrey Morgenthaler was the pioneer here in the states and he deserves credit for a lot of what has happened with barrel aging.  He started doing this many moons ago and has paved the way for the rest of us.

Nevertheless, you can be late to the game nationally and still pretty early on in your particular geographic area, which seems to be the case out in these parts. And as we learned with the hop infused gin experiments, your competitive advantage can last all of ten minutes before someone else takes it to heart and starts doing something similar.  But that’s all good, it helps keep everyone on their toes and makes us continue to find new things to do to stay ahead.

So I snagged a few oak barrels over the past few weeks that I’ve started putting to use.  One was a Beaujolais barrel that came from Steve up at Oliver Ales in Baltimore while the other one came from Tuthilltown Spirits in New York.  The Tuthilltown barrel is whiskey cured new oak, which I am pretty certain will  impart a lot of character to the cocktail.  So I started there, using a rye based cocktail as my base. There have been a number of barrel aged Manhattans floating around on the interwebs lately, so I decided to go a similar route with a twist and move forward with the pre-cursor to the Manhattan, the Brooklyn.

The Brooklyn cocktail has some similarities to the Manhattan as it is a combination of rye whiskey and vermouth. But this drink uses dry vermouth instead of sweet vermouth and it adds complexity with maraschino liqueur and Amer Picon.  Unfortunately, you can’t really get your hands on Amer Picon these days.  But lucky for us, there are some appropriate substitutes and I used Ramazotti, a bitter Italian Amaro.

My goal here is to age this for 6 – 8 weeks, tasting along the way to see where the sweet spot may be.  Stay tuned for updates, tasting notes and the final results.

The Big Beers Just Keep Getting Bigger…

Ok, so I’m as much of a fan of the “extreme” beers as the next guy, but things are getting a little bit out of hand.  When I’m picking drafts these days, one of my primary concerns is ABV.  At this point, you have to factor that in.  The average craft beer seems to have risen to over 6% with your everyday  IPA topping out over 7%.  Want a stout? You’re probably looking at 8% or 9%.  Christmas beer? 10% or more.

Don’t get me wrong, there are good session beers out there these days, but the specialty beers and the seasonals are getting a little out of hand.  Want proof? Just look at some of the new seasonals available in Maryland right now.  Mad Elf is 11%.  Bruery 4 Calling Birds is 11%.  Brooklyn Black Chocolate Stout is 10%.  Uinta Dubhe Black IPA is 9.6%.  Dogfish 120 Minute just came out at a whopping 18%! Victory Yakima Glory is 8.7%.  Evolution Menagerie #3 is an even 10%. All delicious beers, all high abv.

Now, I know what you’re thinking.  You’re saying to yourself “there are great beers out there that are lower abv.  This guy is nuts”. That’s true, I know.  You can snag a Sierra Nevada Celebration at a meager 6.7%.  Or a Sam Smith Winter Warmer at 6.1%.  A Sixpoint Diesel at 6.8%. But the reality is that this becoming the exception rather than the rule.  I beg you to find a winter beer that sits under 6%.  Or a coveted seasonal that isn’t 8% or higher. When I choose beers for the restaurant, everyone wants the rare and unique.  But when that’s the only thing I choose, we end up with more than half of our drafts at 8% or higher.  And for a lot of people, or a lot of dayparts, or a lot of situations, that’s kind of limiting.  So let’s keep making some high abv beers, but can someone please make me a drinkable, delicious, 5% Christmas beer?!?

The Hop Infused Gin Experiment Continues…

The hop infused gin experiment is moving forward and I’ve found that there is a substantial difference among different hops. The earthy, floral hops add a much subtler flavor and are, at times, overpowered by the botanicals in the gin. Even with a less juniper-heavy gin such as Bluecoat, I’m still finding that the hop aroma is muted.

I’ve also found that the high alpha hops are adding substantially more bitterness than I had anticipated. I had assumed that without boiling the hops, I wouldn’t get a lot of bitterness. But as it turns out, the infusion is adding a lingering bitterness to the finish of the gin. Even after the hop leaf is strained, the remaining small particles continue to add some bitterness, so I think that a cheesecloth strain is necessary.

This new experiment should prove interesting. I have a wide range of  hops with different levels of alpha acids and different flavor characteristics that I will be able to taste side by side. I anticipate Cascade to be the best fit, but who knows. The best hop up to this point has been Chinook.

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