The Noble Experiment

Category: Cocktail

Serious Eats Feature – I’m Drinking a Negroni

Serious Eats did a great job profiling a variety of bartenders and getting varying responses to their latest query “what do you drink behind the bar”. You’ll see that I’m a Negroni guy, which shouldn’t be surprising to people who know me. Bitterness is king.

http://drinks.seriouseats.com/2012/05/ask-a-bartender-what-do-bartenders-drink-behind-the-bar.html?ref=carousel

If you want to drink the Negroni that I’ll be drinking (probably tonight), go for the following:

Negroni

1 oz Bluecoat Gin

1 oz Punt e Mes

1 oz Campari

Stir, strain over new ice and garnish with an orange peel.


Death in the Afternoon

I’ve been on a quest for some time now to displace the mimosa as the morning/afternoon champagne cocktail of choice. There was the momentarily famous Breakfast Cocktail, but people often said that it was too much work and too obscure. So I caved.

I’m currently rotating through a staggering number of sparkling cocktails that I think have potential, but my current favorite afternoon sparkler is most certainly the Death in the Afternoon. This drink is said to have been created by the famous imbiber (and author, apparently) Ernest Hemingway. His love for the sauce has been well documented and we can thank him for some other classic cocktails such as the Hemingway Daiquiri. But the Death in the Afternoon really brings out the day drinking alcoholic side of Hemingway that we all know and love. It’s a simple drink and any bartender worth their salt can whip this together.

As always, quality is the key. If you don’t want to drop $60+ on a bottle of Absinthe, I’d recommend Herbsaint from the Sazerac Co in New Orleans. Their $30 bottle of anise liqueur is an absinthe replacement, omitting on the Wormwood (which helped them produce it throughout the American absinthe ban).

I typically use Spanish cava as my sparkler of choice, but any good American sparkling wine or French Champagne will work just fine. I like the slightly yeasty notes you get from Methode Champegnoise sparkling wines, so don’t skimp. Without further ado…

Death in the Afternoon
1 oz Absinthe or Herbsaint
4 oz Sparkline Wine

Mix in a champagne flute and enjoy. If you like to chill your absinthe ahead of time, that’s fine. I like the slightly warm anise notes that come from room temp absinthe and cold sparkling wine. But I’m a bit odd.

Links and Blogs and Things You Should Read

There are a few definitive places that you should be getting your information from (aside from here). I’ll include the obvious ones, like reading the NY Times restaurant reviews (this week’s review was a one-star gem about Shake Shack, btw) alongside the *slightly* more obscure places you can read about beer and cocktails.  Without further ado, here are my top four in each category…

Cocktails

Jeffrey Morgenthaler - http://www.jeffreymorgenthaler.com/

Jacob Grier – http://www.jacobgrier.com

Rum Dood - http://rumdood.com/

Gojee - http://www.gojee.com/

Beer

Beer News - http://beernews.org/

Brookston Beer Bulletin - http://brookstonbeerbulletin.com/

Lew Bryson Seen Through a Glass - http://lewbryson.blogspot.com/

A Good Beer Blog - http://beerblog.genx40.com/

Newspaper Food Sections

NY Times - http://www.nytimes.com/pages/dining/index.html

Washington Post - http://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/food

LA Times - http://www.latimes.com/features/food/

Chicago Tribune -http://www.chicagotribune.com/features/food/#&lid=Food & Dining&lpos=Sub

You have other suggestions? What are your favorite beer, cocktail, and food blogs?

The Scotch Old Fashioned

This is an old favorite, one of my go-to cocktails when I want something approachable, yet complex. It’s a play on an old fashioned, substituting scotch for bourbon and using two kinds of bitters for complexity. I like Auchentoshan scotch with its nice balance of smokiness without an overwhelming peat fire flavor. My bitters of choice, not surprisingly, are Angostura and Regan’s Orange No 6.  Check the recipe below.

Read the rest of this entry »

Blogger at Beer Mixology

I’ll be contributing from time to time on a new site called Beer Mixology.  It’s based out of Denver and they got some stellar bloggers to help move the beer cocktail trend forward.  It should be a fun project and hopefully there will be some good recipes as a result.  Stay tuned for my first post there in the coming weeks.  Here is their take on the scope of the site:

In its most basic definition, beer mixology is the art or skill of crafting and mixing cocktails that use beer as an ingredient.

Some purists in the beer industry might argue that beer is, in itself, a perfectly crafted cocktail of barley, hops, yeast, water, and potentially other additives. Conversely, some mixology purists might argue that flavor profile of beer is not ideal and does not, in fact, have chemistry with spirits.

Although neither views are wrong and everyone is entitled to their own opinions, our goal here at Beer Mixology is to explore the relationship between beer and spirits and share our findings and experiments with the world!

I did a little interview with them that you can check out here.

Buy These Books, Slackers

I know you don’t like to read.  Sometime after middle school you gave that up, didn’t you.  Whatever, slacker.  To bring back the glory days of your eduukation, I’ve decided to tell you what to read.  Nothing on this list will be a waste of your time and whether you choose to skim it, study it, use it, or just look at the pictures, I’m sure you’ll be quite satisfied with the results.

In no particular order…

1. PDT Cocktail Book: This book is a handy cocktail reference book to keep on hand. It houses a lot of obscure ingredients that you probably don’t have (but probably should) but it’s also chock full of delicious recipes that only use three or four ingredients, many of which you probably do have (Or definitely should have). If you buy one cocktail book, make it this one.

2.  The Oxford Companion to Beer: Why, you ask, do I need a thousand page reference book on beer? Who cares about the isomerization of alpha acids in hops and melanoidin formation in the malting process? Me, for one. And you should too. Like that guy on that show from your childhood used to say, “the more you know…”

3. Ad Hoc at Home: This should be your cookbook of choice. From the ever impressive Thomas Keller, this is a refreshingly delicious cookbook that doesn’t require an anti-griddle, liquid nitrogen or a sous vide machine to make your food taste good. If you like food and you want to cook, this is the only book you need.  You’ll impress even your harshest critic (me).

4. Momofuku Cookbook:  You’ll never cook out of this one. When was the last time you made bacon stock for your ramen? Right. But this is a great read. David Chang talks a lot about the process of opening and working in a restaurant.  He talks about his life and his path, and he does so in a way that makes it interesting.  He swears a lot and writes like a real person.

5.  Blood, Bones and Butter:  This book by Gabrielle Hamilton, is probably the most entertaining and well written thing I’ve ever read. A story of her journey through the depths of the restaurant industry to the eventual opening of her own restaurant, this is a must read. It’s a novel, or biography, or whatever that’s called. It’s not a cookbook. Read this book.

The Japanese Coffee Siphon Cocktail

This one is fun.

With some help from my good friends over at Ceremony Coffee in Annapolis, I got my hands on a Japanese coffee siphon.  These siphons are pretty cool little contraptions.  When brewing coffee, you put your water in the bottom chamber and your coffee grounds in the top chamber.  The water is heated by a small bunson burner and once it reaches a certain temperature, it is sucked up into the top chamber where it mixes with the grounds. The turbulence of the liquid sloshing around extracts the flavor from the coffee.  When it’s fully infused, you cut the heat and the liquid drops back into the bottom.

I decided that it would be a fun exercise to add some botanicals to the top chamber and to add some water and booze to the bottom chamber.  As the liquid gets siphoned up into the top chamber, the turbulence acts as a rapid infuser, similar to simmering all of these ingredients together on the stove, infusing the liquid with intense flavors.

For our first cocktail, we went with gin, barenjager, and water in the bottom chamber.  I figured that since gin is so full of botanicals as is, that a few more in the mix could only do it some good.

In the top chamber I added Earl Grey tea, orange peel, lemon peel, dried cranberries, mint, sage, and a little dash of our house winter bitters blend.  After heating the siphon, the liquid looked like this.

As you can see, it picked up a lot of color.  It also picked up a lot of flavor.  There were subtle citrus notes, a nice hit of the hot tea, and a little bit of hot alcohol.  Once its all said and done, you can pull off the top part and pour directly out of the bottom chamber.  And you’re left with a delicious hot cocktail!

In case you have a Japanese siphon lying around and want to make this yourself, here’s what I did. The first four ingredients go in the bottom chamber:

1.5oz Gin

0.25 oz Barenjager

1 Dash Winter Bitters (I use a house blend, a good substitute would be 1/2 Angostura, 1/2 Fee Brothers Old Fashioned)

5 oz water

The rest of the ingredients go in the top chamber:

1 large orange peel

1 lemon peel

1 bag of Earl Grey tea

2 stalks mint (leaves only)

2 stalks sage (leaves only)

1 handful (about 25) dried cranberries

Barkeep, there is vinegar in my cocktail!

Citrus is played out. You can only have so much fun with lemon and lime juice until you grow tired of the results. But when making drinks, you need that acidity to balance out the sweetness of liqueurs and spirits. So, you may ask, how do I find balance without using the bracing acidity of citrus fruit? Vinegar.

Vinegar on its own is a bit aggressive for most cocktails. The smell alone is enough to make someone cringe. But there are many techniques that can help to make vinegar more palatable without it losing that acidic bite to balance out your sweetener. My two favorite options are (1) soak fruit in the vinegar, or (2) rinse a glass and dump.

The rinsing technique is similar to what you might do when using Absinthe in a Sazerac. You want the essence, but you don’t want the flavors to overwhelm the drink. Given the small quantity that is being used in this technique, you’re going to get flavor and some acidity, but you’ll need to be careful with the sweet components in your drink as it probably won’t have the same effect as using a 1/2 or 3/4 oz of lime juice.

The other option, which is perhaps more interesting, is to soak the vinegar in fruit for a few days. Once the vinegar has taken on the fruit aroma and flavor, you can add a little bit of sugar and simmer it to fully combine the flavors. That will thicken it up slightly and balance it out while still leaving you the aggressive aspects of the vinegar that you were looking for. This also affords you the opportunity to add some additional aromatics such as bay leaf, rosemary, lemon verbena, lavender, etc.  What you’re left with after you simmer and strain is a sweet and tart syrup that will add complexity and intrigue to your drink.

Here’s the basic recipe that I use for my Shrub syrup:

3 Cups Fresh Fruit – this could equate to one whole pineapple, a lb of strawberries, a few stalks of rhubarb, etc.

6 Cups of Vinegar  - I usually use apple cider vinegar, but balsamic or champagne vinegar would be great too.  No white vinegar

5 oz White Sugar

A Handful of Aromatics – pair something with your fruit ie: pineapple and sage, strawberries and basil, blueberries and lemon verbena

Combine your fruit and vinegar and let it sit covered for five days, shaking once daily. After five days, strain and put it in a saucepan with sugar.  Bring to a simmer, add the aromatics and let it simmer for 8 – 10 minutes.  Remove, cool, store refrigerated and start making cocktails.

The Hop Infused Gin Experiment Continues…

The hop infused gin experiment is moving forward and I’ve found that there is a substantial difference among different hops. The earthy, floral hops add a much subtler flavor and are, at times, overpowered by the botanicals in the gin. Even with a less juniper-heavy gin such as Bluecoat, I’m still finding that the hop aroma is muted.

I’ve also found that the high alpha hops are adding substantially more bitterness than I had anticipated. I had assumed that without boiling the hops, I wouldn’t get a lot of bitterness. But as it turns out, the infusion is adding a lingering bitterness to the finish of the gin. Even after the hop leaf is strained, the remaining small particles continue to add some bitterness, so I think that a cheesecloth strain is necessary.

This new experiment should prove interesting. I have a wide range of  hops with different levels of alpha acids and different flavor characteristics that I will be able to taste side by side. I anticipate Cascade to be the best fit, but who knows. The best hop up to this point has been Chinook.

Hop Infused Gin

Beer cocktails are  all the rage these days. Given the natural progression of the craft beer and craft cocktail movements, it’s not altogether surprising. The primary direction for beer cocktails tends to be a lager or wheat beer to showcase interesting liquor combinations. This works well and the end result are complex cocktails with great flavor profiles.

I’ve been working on a few new beer cocktails myself, but I’m taking a slightly different approach, as I’m working on pairing with an IPA. This is not entirely new or novel.  People have done it and done it successfully, but it’s not nearly as common of a pairing.

Nevertheless, after a bit of tinkering, I’ve found a formula that seems to be working and it includes hop infused gin.

Gin and Hops

I was looking for a hop profile had some earthy and piney notes, with hits of citrus.  But I didn’t want an all citrus hop like Cascade or Citra.  Chinooks are known for their bittering qualities, although in this type of application bitterness isn’t a primary concern.  In order for alpha acids to isomerize and impart bitterness to a liquid, they need to be boiled for a significant amount of time, usually about 30 minutes.  Hence, in homebrewing, the bittering hops are put in the kettle first.  You can pull a mild amount of bitterness from hops via a cold infusion, but it won’t overwhelm.

The most popular beer that uses Chinook hops, at least according to urban legend as their recipes are secret, is Stone Arrogant Bastard.  Arrogant Bastard is an aggressively bittered beer from an aggressive brewery, and its pretty delicious to boot.  But I digress…

I let the Chinook hops sit in my gin for 36 hours.  I used less than 1/4 of an ounce of hops and about 8 ounces of Bluecoat American Dry Gin.  After 36 hours, I strained the hops and was left with a lovely green tinted, botancial-forward, citrus and piney smelling gin.  Good stuff.

There will be more to come on this cocktail once its finalized, but for now, let it be known that the first cocktail included gin, lemon, honey, and IPA. It needs balance, but it’s not far off.  Stay tuned for details and the recipe to follow.

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