The Noble Experiment

Category: Liqueur

Barkeep, there is vinegar in my cocktail!

Citrus is played out. You can only have so much fun with lemon and lime juice until you grow tired of the results. But when making drinks, you need that acidity to balance out the sweetness of liqueurs and spirits. So, you may ask, how do I find balance without using the bracing acidity of citrus fruit? Vinegar.

Vinegar on its own is a bit aggressive for most cocktails. The smell alone is enough to make someone cringe. But there are many techniques that can help to make vinegar more palatable without it losing that acidic bite to balance out your sweetener. My two favorite options are (1) soak fruit in the vinegar, or (2) rinse a glass and dump.

The rinsing technique is similar to what you might do when using Absinthe in a Sazerac. You want the essence, but you don’t want the flavors to overwhelm the drink. Given the small quantity that is being used in this technique, you’re going to get flavor and some acidity, but you’ll need to be careful with the sweet components in your drink as it probably won’t have the same effect as using a 1/2 or 3/4 oz of lime juice.

The other option, which is perhaps more interesting, is to soak the vinegar in fruit for a few days. Once the vinegar has taken on the fruit aroma and flavor, you can add a little bit of sugar and simmer it to fully combine the flavors. That will thicken it up slightly and balance it out while still leaving you the aggressive aspects of the vinegar that you were looking for. This also affords you the opportunity to add some additional aromatics such as bay leaf, rosemary, lemon verbena, lavender, etc.  What you’re left with after you simmer and strain is a sweet and tart syrup that will add complexity and intrigue to your drink.

Here’s the basic recipe that I use for my Shrub syrup:

3 Cups Fresh Fruit – this could equate to one whole pineapple, a lb of strawberries, a few stalks of rhubarb, etc.

6 Cups of Vinegar  - I usually use apple cider vinegar, but balsamic or champagne vinegar would be great too.  No white vinegar

5 oz White Sugar

A Handful of Aromatics – pair something with your fruit ie: pineapple and sage, strawberries and basil, blueberries and lemon verbena

Combine your fruit and vinegar and let it sit covered for five days, shaking once daily. After five days, strain and put it in a saucepan with sugar.  Bring to a simmer, add the aromatics and let it simmer for 8 – 10 minutes.  Remove, cool, store refrigerated and start making cocktails.

The Hop Infused Gin Experiment Continues…

The hop infused gin experiment is moving forward and I’ve found that there is a substantial difference among different hops. The earthy, floral hops add a much subtler flavor and are, at times, overpowered by the botanicals in the gin. Even with a less juniper-heavy gin such as Bluecoat, I’m still finding that the hop aroma is muted.

I’ve also found that the high alpha hops are adding substantially more bitterness than I had anticipated. I had assumed that without boiling the hops, I wouldn’t get a lot of bitterness. But as it turns out, the infusion is adding a lingering bitterness to the finish of the gin. Even after the hop leaf is strained, the remaining small particles continue to add some bitterness, so I think that a cheesecloth strain is necessary.

This new experiment should prove interesting. I have a wide range of  hops with different levels of alpha acids and different flavor characteristics that I will be able to taste side by side. I anticipate Cascade to be the best fit, but who knows. The best hop up to this point has been Chinook.

My Favorite Spirits (and things) of 2010

Lists, lists, lists.  You can tell we’re turning (or have turned) the page on 2010 when the lists start hitting your twitter feed. It’s the best of this and the best of that.  The best tweeters, drinkers, eaters, chefs, bartenders, mixologists, trends, terms, tacos, ads, videos, youtube clips and restaurants all get their day in the sun.   So I figured I’d join the fray and throw in my own list.

In no particular order, here are my top five spirits from 2010.

1. Luxardo Maraschino – This is by no means a new spirit, but it has become better represented and it comprises an important part of my favorite cocktail, the Aviation.  A sweet yet slightly bitter liqueur that adds depth and intrigue to anything it touches.  Just measure carefully or you’ll be maraschinoed out.

2. Ypioca Cachaca – Cachaca is the new black.  Sugar cane is the new molasses.  Wicker wrapped bottles are the new something or other.  If you can get past the creepy old man on this bottle, you’ll discover a fragrant bombshell under the wicker. The most herbaceous and interesting cachaca I’ve come across.  And reasonably priced to boot.  Get it, taste it, love it.  And try making this cachaca old fashioned.  Or this strawberry+basil+cachaca cocktail.

3. Dolin Vermouth – This vermouth has a smoother, sweeter palate than almost every other vermouth on the market.  It soothes and caresses your martinis and manhattans, lending a velvety and round mouthfeel to your all spirit drinks.  You heard me right, caresses.  Buy a bottle, put it in your fridge, and drink the shit out of it.  If you’re not feeling a martini or manhattan, try out this recipe for the Bronx.

4. Gin – Really any kind of gin works for me, although I do have my favorites.  The forward anise flavors of Aviation, the cucumber and peppery notes of Hendrix, or the limeyness of Tanqueray Rangpur.  They all work and show great versatility.  Check out this summer sipper in the form of a champagne cocktail or the classic Clover Club.

5. Bitters – This seems like an obvious choice, but that’s ok.  Everything doesn’t need to be different, crazy and unpredictable.  Sometimes you need to return to your roots.  Bitters add complexity and flavor while balancing sweetness and building depth.  Learn to use them and you’ve immediately upped the ante.  You can either make your own or just find some of these great brands.

New Bitters!

Well, at least they’re new to me.  I always carry around a bottle of Angostura and Peychaud’s, as well as my favorite Fee Brothers bitter of the moment.  But I just got some new additions from Cocktail Kingdom!  As you can see in the sunny picture below, I’ve recently added Dandelion and Burdock bitters from the UK and Bittermens Grapefruit bitters made with noble hops.

The Dandelion and Burdock bitters recommends a tequila cocktail as a starting point and I think that’s probably where I’ll start.  They have a nice fennel undertone and I think tequila would work, or maybe a spicier mezcal.

The grapefruit bitters will probably begin in a gin cocktail for me, as the spiciness of the hops balances the grapefruit well and I think it would play well with a little juniper.  Recipes will follow soon.

Sorry about the picture quality.  In the excitement of the moment I just snapped some photos with my cell phone (a respectable Mytouch Fender 3g, FYI).

Dying Days of Summer. The Kitchen Sink

National Rum day has come and gone.  Does that mean we have to move on from our sugar case based liquors? Anyone? I’ll take your silence as a “no” and get you started with a nice cachaca cocktail to finish out your summer days. 

As you may be able to tell from the title, this cocktail was an experiment with a variety of liquors and liqueurs that I had on hand.  I threw in everything but the kitchen sink.    It’s sweet and tart, has some serious summery-ness because of the coconut, and it finishes beautifully with a touch of amaretto.  Here is your arsenal of liquors and liquers.  I also used lime juice and a combination of Fee Brothers grapefruit and old fashioned bitters.   Check out the recipe below the pics. Sorry, I don’t have a picture of the Kalani.  Just close your eyes and picture a lovely coconut tree.  You get the idea.

 

The Kitchen Sink:

1 oz Cachaca

0.50 oz Cassis Syrup

0.50 oz Lime Juice

0.50 oz Kalani Coconut Liqueur

Dash of Fee Brothers Grapefruit Bitters

Dash of Fee Brothers Old Fashioned Bitters

Float of Luxardo Amaretto

Mix all the ingredients in a shaker with ice and mix vigorously to combine.  Strain into a martini glass and enjoy!!

How to Make Bitters

Anyone who has ever had a Manhattan without Angostura Bitters knows the value of that little bottle.  Those magical drops can add depth, flavor and balance to your cocktails. Most people are probably familiar with Peychaud, Angostura, and Regans Orange, the  most popular brands of bitters and the most vital to a few of the classic cocktails.

But these days, there are all sorts of bitters out there.  The good folks at Fee Brothers have a whole boatload of flavors including grapefruit rhubarb, peach and more.  And nowadays you can find numerous other brands over at Cocktail Kingdom.

While most of these bitters have their place at the bar (you’ll run into a few that aren’t worth your time or attention), the best way to make a unique cocktail is to make bitters on your own.  It’s easy and fun and it will add depth and flavor combinations that are unique to your drinks.

The most difficult item to procure when making your own bitters is the bittering agent.  To make this a bit easier on you, here are a few options you can use.  My bittering agents of choice are wormwood and bitter orange peel, although you have a lot of options, including:

Gentian

Quassia

Wormwood

Milk Thistle Seed

Birch Leaf

Bitter Orange Peel

Bitter Lemon Peel

Fennel Seed

The best place to find these ingredients is often at a homebrew store.  The ingredients are common for beer brewing, so you can often find these items in stock and ready for you.  If you live in or around the Annapolis/Baltimore/Washington DC area, check out Annapolis Homebrew.

Here is a basic recipe for orange bitters to get you started.

6 oz high proof vodka or grain alcohol
6 tsp orange peel, chopped
1.5 oz ginger peel, chopped
1/2 cinnamon stick
5 whole cloves
1.5 tsp bitter orange peel

Take the vodka or grain alcohol and add the bitter orange peel.  Seal it and let it sit for two days.  After two days, strain out the bitter orange peel and discard.

Add the remaining ingredients to the liquid (which should have a nice bitter kick to it), seal it up and leave it in a dark corner for 10 – 14 days.  Strain everything out and you have yourself some flavorful, complex orange bitters!

After the 14 day rest period, you can continue to add flavors to your bitters.  If you want more orange, add more orange.  If you like that spice and cinnamon flavor, leave the cinnamon stick and cloves in the liquid longer.  This is a flexible process and that is the great part about making your own bitters.

Making Rhubarb Syrup and Cocktails

Tis’ the season for house-made spring mixers!  And this time of year always makes me think of rhubarb and asparagus.  Asparagus seems like a tough fit with most cocktails, so rhubarb was my spring item of choice for this mixer.  Look at all this beautiful rhubarb!

I decided to go with a nice tangy rhubarb syrup to complement a yet-to-be-determined cocktail.  So I took fresh rhubarb, sugar, water, and lime juice and threw it all on the stove.  I brought it to a boil and let it simmer for about 10 minutes.  To help concentrate the flavors, I decided to blend the mixture and strain it through a cheesecloth.  The final product was a vibrant red color and had a nice consistency.  It was viscous enough, but not overly so.  And the sweet/tart balance was just right.

Now on to the cocktails: After testing out a few different liquors I landed on white rum.  It’s a good fit for the spring time and I found that it had the appropriate amount of herbaceousness (sp?!) for this cocktail.  Gin felt too complex and it overwhelmed the syrup.  Vodka was too blank.  White rum had the peppery zip I was looking for but it was balanced enough to let the rhubarb shine.  For this particular cocktail I decided to use Dogfish Head White Rum (you may know that I’m a Dogfish fan) and it was just right.

To continue moving the cocktail in the right direction, I decided that rum, lime and rhubarb syrup would be my base.  I ended up with two very different, but both appealing, spring cocktails.  The first was simpler and it played off of the tartness/sourness of the rhubarb, bringing in a little acid to liven things up and a touch of sweetness to balance them out.  See recipe #1 below.  The second cocktail brought in some additional liqueurs and a bit more sweetness.  But it was balanced out by Angostura and I was satisfied with the end product.

Go get yourself some rhubarb and get to work!

Rhubarb Cocktail #1:

1.25 oz white rum

0.75 oz lime juice

0.50 oz simple syrup

0.75 oz rhubarb syrup

1 Dash Angostura Bitters

Rhubarb Cocktail #2:

1 oz rhubarb syrup

0.75 oz lime juice

1.25 oz white rum

0.50 oz Domaine de Canton

0.25 oz St Germain

1 Dash Angostura Bitters

Product Review: Domaine de Canton Ginger Liqueur

There are many things that I enjoy about Domaine de Canton. As a brandy based liqueur with all natural ingredients, Domaine de Canton is subtle, yet packed with flavor.  It has a sweetness to it that is shockingly mellow followed by graceful notes of ginger.  Seriously, that’s what it inspired me to write. It’s made with VSOP Cognac and baby Vietnamese ginger, handcrafted in France.

It’s a pretty delicious mixer and very versatile.  I’ve seen it in a ginger-grapefruit margarita, a sparkling and gingery version of the French 76, in mojitos (see below) and many more. My personal favorite is the spring time ginger-lemon mojito.

I know that we haven’t quite made it to spring yet, but we’re getting closer (just forget about tomorrow’s snowstorm). Try this the next time you want a nice spring-y drink.  Muddle some lemon and mint, add some Domaine de Canton, top it off with some light rum and serve over ice.   It’s different, complex and delicious.  All good things.

So, my recommendation for Domaine de Canton? Buy it.  And drink it.  From what I recall, you can find it at Mills Fine Wine and Spirits in downtown Annapolis.

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