The Noble Experiment

Category: Recipe

Death in the Afternoon

I’ve been on a quest for some time now to displace the mimosa as the morning/afternoon champagne cocktail of choice. There was the momentarily famous Breakfast Cocktail, but people often said that it was too much work and too obscure. So I caved.

I’m currently rotating through a staggering number of sparkling cocktails that I think have potential, but my current favorite afternoon sparkler is most certainly the Death in the Afternoon. This drink is said to have been created by the famous imbiber (and author, apparently) Ernest Hemingway. His love for the sauce has been well documented and we can thank him for some other classic cocktails such as the Hemingway Daiquiri. But the Death in the Afternoon really brings out the day drinking alcoholic side of Hemingway that we all know and love. It’s a simple drink and any bartender worth their salt can whip this together.

As always, quality is the key. If you don’t want to drop $60+ on a bottle of Absinthe, I’d recommend Herbsaint from the Sazerac Co in New Orleans. Their $30 bottle of anise liqueur is an absinthe replacement, omitting on the Wormwood (which helped them produce it throughout the American absinthe ban).

I typically use Spanish cava as my sparkler of choice, but any good American sparkling wine or French Champagne will work just fine. I like the slightly yeasty notes you get from Methode Champegnoise sparkling wines, so don’t skimp. Without further ado…

Death in the Afternoon
1 oz Absinthe or Herbsaint
4 oz Sparkline Wine

Mix in a champagne flute and enjoy. If you like to chill your absinthe ahead of time, that’s fine. I like the slightly warm anise notes that come from room temp absinthe and cold sparkling wine. But I’m a bit odd.

The Scotch Old Fashioned

This is an old favorite, one of my go-to cocktails when I want something approachable, yet complex. It’s a play on an old fashioned, substituting scotch for bourbon and using two kinds of bitters for complexity. I like Auchentoshan scotch with its nice balance of smokiness without an overwhelming peat fire flavor. My bitters of choice, not surprisingly, are Angostura and Regan’s Orange No 6.  Check the recipe below.

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The Japanese Coffee Siphon Cocktail

This one is fun.

With some help from my good friends over at Ceremony Coffee in Annapolis, I got my hands on a Japanese coffee siphon.  These siphons are pretty cool little contraptions.  When brewing coffee, you put your water in the bottom chamber and your coffee grounds in the top chamber.  The water is heated by a small bunson burner and once it reaches a certain temperature, it is sucked up into the top chamber where it mixes with the grounds. The turbulence of the liquid sloshing around extracts the flavor from the coffee.  When it’s fully infused, you cut the heat and the liquid drops back into the bottom.

I decided that it would be a fun exercise to add some botanicals to the top chamber and to add some water and booze to the bottom chamber.  As the liquid gets siphoned up into the top chamber, the turbulence acts as a rapid infuser, similar to simmering all of these ingredients together on the stove, infusing the liquid with intense flavors.

For our first cocktail, we went with gin, barenjager, and water in the bottom chamber.  I figured that since gin is so full of botanicals as is, that a few more in the mix could only do it some good.

In the top chamber I added Earl Grey tea, orange peel, lemon peel, dried cranberries, mint, sage, and a little dash of our house winter bitters blend.  After heating the siphon, the liquid looked like this.

As you can see, it picked up a lot of color.  It also picked up a lot of flavor.  There were subtle citrus notes, a nice hit of the hot tea, and a little bit of hot alcohol.  Once its all said and done, you can pull off the top part and pour directly out of the bottom chamber.  And you’re left with a delicious hot cocktail!

In case you have a Japanese siphon lying around and want to make this yourself, here’s what I did. The first four ingredients go in the bottom chamber:

1.5oz Gin

0.25 oz Barenjager

1 Dash Winter Bitters (I use a house blend, a good substitute would be 1/2 Angostura, 1/2 Fee Brothers Old Fashioned)

5 oz water

The rest of the ingredients go in the top chamber:

1 large orange peel

1 lemon peel

1 bag of Earl Grey tea

2 stalks mint (leaves only)

2 stalks sage (leaves only)

1 handful (about 25) dried cranberries

Barkeep, there is vinegar in my cocktail!

Citrus is played out. You can only have so much fun with lemon and lime juice until you grow tired of the results. But when making drinks, you need that acidity to balance out the sweetness of liqueurs and spirits. So, you may ask, how do I find balance without using the bracing acidity of citrus fruit? Vinegar.

Vinegar on its own is a bit aggressive for most cocktails. The smell alone is enough to make someone cringe. But there are many techniques that can help to make vinegar more palatable without it losing that acidic bite to balance out your sweetener. My two favorite options are (1) soak fruit in the vinegar, or (2) rinse a glass and dump.

The rinsing technique is similar to what you might do when using Absinthe in a Sazerac. You want the essence, but you don’t want the flavors to overwhelm the drink. Given the small quantity that is being used in this technique, you’re going to get flavor and some acidity, but you’ll need to be careful with the sweet components in your drink as it probably won’t have the same effect as using a 1/2 or 3/4 oz of lime juice.

The other option, which is perhaps more interesting, is to soak the vinegar in fruit for a few days. Once the vinegar has taken on the fruit aroma and flavor, you can add a little bit of sugar and simmer it to fully combine the flavors. That will thicken it up slightly and balance it out while still leaving you the aggressive aspects of the vinegar that you were looking for. This also affords you the opportunity to add some additional aromatics such as bay leaf, rosemary, lemon verbena, lavender, etc.  What you’re left with after you simmer and strain is a sweet and tart syrup that will add complexity and intrigue to your drink.

Here’s the basic recipe that I use for my Shrub syrup:

3 Cups Fresh Fruit – this could equate to one whole pineapple, a lb of strawberries, a few stalks of rhubarb, etc.

6 Cups of Vinegar  - I usually use apple cider vinegar, but balsamic or champagne vinegar would be great too.  No white vinegar

5 oz White Sugar

A Handful of Aromatics – pair something with your fruit ie: pineapple and sage, strawberries and basil, blueberries and lemon verbena

Combine your fruit and vinegar and let it sit covered for five days, shaking once daily. After five days, strain and put it in a saucepan with sugar.  Bring to a simmer, add the aromatics and let it simmer for 8 – 10 minutes.  Remove, cool, store refrigerated and start making cocktails.

Barrel Aging Cocktails

Alright, so this may have been played out last year in Portland and NYC, but it really hasn’t taken root here in the Mid-Atlantic. Jeffrey Morgenthaler was the pioneer here in the states and he deserves credit for a lot of what has happened with barrel aging.  He started doing this many moons ago and has paved the way for the rest of us.

Nevertheless, you can be late to the game nationally and still pretty early on in your particular geographic area, which seems to be the case out in these parts. And as we learned with the hop infused gin experiments, your competitive advantage can last all of ten minutes before someone else takes it to heart and starts doing something similar.  But that’s all good, it helps keep everyone on their toes and makes us continue to find new things to do to stay ahead.

So I snagged a few oak barrels over the past few weeks that I’ve started putting to use.  One was a Beaujolais barrel that came from Steve up at Oliver Ales in Baltimore while the other one came from Tuthilltown Spirits in New York.  The Tuthilltown barrel is whiskey cured new oak, which I am pretty certain will  impart a lot of character to the cocktail.  So I started there, using a rye based cocktail as my base. There have been a number of barrel aged Manhattans floating around on the interwebs lately, so I decided to go a similar route with a twist and move forward with the pre-cursor to the Manhattan, the Brooklyn.

The Brooklyn cocktail has some similarities to the Manhattan as it is a combination of rye whiskey and vermouth. But this drink uses dry vermouth instead of sweet vermouth and it adds complexity with maraschino liqueur and Amer Picon.  Unfortunately, you can’t really get your hands on Amer Picon these days.  But lucky for us, there are some appropriate substitutes and I used Ramazotti, a bitter Italian Amaro.

My goal here is to age this for 6 – 8 weeks, tasting along the way to see where the sweet spot may be.  Stay tuned for updates, tasting notes and the final results.

The Hop Infused Gin Experiment Continues…

The hop infused gin experiment is moving forward and I’ve found that there is a substantial difference among different hops. The earthy, floral hops add a much subtler flavor and are, at times, overpowered by the botanicals in the gin. Even with a less juniper-heavy gin such as Bluecoat, I’m still finding that the hop aroma is muted.

I’ve also found that the high alpha hops are adding substantially more bitterness than I had anticipated. I had assumed that without boiling the hops, I wouldn’t get a lot of bitterness. But as it turns out, the infusion is adding a lingering bitterness to the finish of the gin. Even after the hop leaf is strained, the remaining small particles continue to add some bitterness, so I think that a cheesecloth strain is necessary.

This new experiment should prove interesting. I have a wide range of  hops with different levels of alpha acids and different flavor characteristics that I will be able to taste side by side. I anticipate Cascade to be the best fit, but who knows. The best hop up to this point has been Chinook.

Halloween Cocktails are Overrated

I mean, come on? How many different candy infused vodkas can you make? The problem that I see with these cocktails is that they’re all so gimmicky.  And when you start making gimmicky cocktails, you end up with things like the Apple-tini, the Sex on the Beach and the Chocolate Cake.

If you’re going to make a ghoulish halloween cocktail, why not just focus on the bounty of the fall harvest? Make something seasonally appropriate that makes sense or think about real cocktails that convey the right message.  Be it a Corpse Reviver #2 or a Zombie, go classic and stay away from candy and liquor.  For your pleasure, here’s a classic Corpse Reviver #2 recipe.

1.25 oz gin

1.25 oz Cocchi Americano

1 oz lemon juice

1 oz triple sec

splash absinthe

mix all ingredients in a shaker, shake to combine and strain.  Enjoy.  Note that a lot of people use equal parts of all the ingredients, but I like a bit more gin and Cocchi (or Lillet).

Hop Infused Gin

Beer cocktails are  all the rage these days. Given the natural progression of the craft beer and craft cocktail movements, it’s not altogether surprising. The primary direction for beer cocktails tends to be a lager or wheat beer to showcase interesting liquor combinations. This works well and the end result are complex cocktails with great flavor profiles.

I’ve been working on a few new beer cocktails myself, but I’m taking a slightly different approach, as I’m working on pairing with an IPA. This is not entirely new or novel.  People have done it and done it successfully, but it’s not nearly as common of a pairing.

Nevertheless, after a bit of tinkering, I’ve found a formula that seems to be working and it includes hop infused gin.

Gin and Hops

I was looking for a hop profile had some earthy and piney notes, with hits of citrus.  But I didn’t want an all citrus hop like Cascade or Citra.  Chinooks are known for their bittering qualities, although in this type of application bitterness isn’t a primary concern.  In order for alpha acids to isomerize and impart bitterness to a liquid, they need to be boiled for a significant amount of time, usually about 30 minutes.  Hence, in homebrewing, the bittering hops are put in the kettle first.  You can pull a mild amount of bitterness from hops via a cold infusion, but it won’t overwhelm.

The most popular beer that uses Chinook hops, at least according to urban legend as their recipes are secret, is Stone Arrogant Bastard.  Arrogant Bastard is an aggressively bittered beer from an aggressive brewery, and its pretty delicious to boot.  But I digress…

I let the Chinook hops sit in my gin for 36 hours.  I used less than 1/4 of an ounce of hops and about 8 ounces of Bluecoat American Dry Gin.  After 36 hours, I strained the hops and was left with a lovely green tinted, botancial-forward, citrus and piney smelling gin.  Good stuff.

There will be more to come on this cocktail once its finalized, but for now, let it be known that the first cocktail included gin, lemon, honey, and IPA. It needs balance, but it’s not far off.  Stay tuned for details and the recipe to follow.

Pama Professional Bartender Competition

Any opportunity to put $4500 in someone’s pocket seems like a noteworthy thing.

So I thought I’d share this competition that popped up in my inbox. PAMA is sponsoring a bartender competition where you can win some cash. They want to see a video of you making a cocktail, coming up with a creative garnish, and showing off your personal style. Not a bad idea and I like the video submission thing. That way, if you really are unique, they can see it in more ways than just a recipe. It’s a bit odd that they’re not requiring an original cocktail with PAMA, but they seem to be looking for alternate criteria.

The bad news for all of you Marylanders, is that, for some reason, this competition isn’t open to MD bartenders. That’s kind of lame, if you ask me. So I share the wealth with all of you out-of-state folks. Now go make a video, wow these jokers over at PAMA, and you can give me 10% :)

Here is a link to the competition page. http://www.pamapro.com/beyondtheglass/submit.php

Cocktails with Maraschino

One of my favorite cocktail ingredients has, for a little while, been Maraschino liqueur. I love Luxardo Maraschino. It’s slightly bitter and sweet, packs a lot of flavor, and can be used in everything from an Aviation to a Hemingway Daiquiri. It’s pretty versatile, particularly when used in moderation. So I thought I’d share a few new favorites that use maraschino, so you can put that bottle in your liquor cabinet to use.

Last Word – 3/4 oz gin, 3/4 oz maraschino, 3/4 oz green chartreuse, 3/4 oz lime juice

Brooklyn – 2 oz Rye, 3/4 oz dry vermouth, 1/4 oz maraschino, 1/4 oz Amer Picon

Brandy Crusta – 1.5 oz brandy, 0.5 oz cointreau, 1 oz lemon juice, 1/4 oz maraschino, dash Fee Brothers Old Fashioned bitters

Unnamed (as of now) – 1.5 oz rye, 1 oz lime juice, 1/2 oz grenadine, 1/4 oz maraschino, Dash Angostura bitters.

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